Over the last 20 years I’ve spent a lot of time talking to dermatologists about the best and worst things you can do for your skin. And we all know that being in the sun is almost always the worst thing you can do. Putting on sunscreen every day, no matter what the weather is like, has become a must-do for many of us in the morning.
But I wanted to know what else is slowly making my skin age besides UV damage. So I asked three skin experts I trust to tell me about the less well-known causes and what we can do to avoid them. Spoiler: Not everyone agreed.
- Mona Gohara, MD, is an associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine.
- Dr. Joshua Zeichner is a board-certified dermatologist and the head of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital’s Department of Dermatology. Dr. Gina Maccarone is a triple board-certified cosmetic surgeon and the founder of The Surgeonista.
Mona Gohara, MD, an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine, says, “After the sun, ageing is mostly an inside job—what we call ‘intrinsic ageing,’ which is choreographed by your genes.” Over time, skin cells divide less well, collagen production slows down, and the skin’s natural repair systems become less active. “It’s not dramatic or flashy, but it keeps going,” she says. Ageing happens slowly and quietly, following the genetic plan you were born with.
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Pressure
Stress, on the other hand, makes skin age more slowly, but just as badly. Gohara said that when asked to pick just one top ager besides the sun stress and genetics were basically the same thing. She says, “Stress ages skin like background apps drain your phone battery.” Chronic cortisol causes inflammation makes it hard to sleep, and slowly breaks down collagen. She also says, “Nothing crashes all at once,” but one day you look in the mirror and see that your skin is suddenly running on low-power mode.
Gohara says that even though stress may seem unavoidable you should focus on small, manageable moments of relief. She says, “Try deep breathing a short walk outside, stretching, singing in the car, or a two-song dance break.” “Little resets of the nervous system add up.”
Sweetness
Joshua Zeichner, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and the head of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital’s Department of Dermatology. He says that diet is often the key He says, “When blood sugar levels stay high for a long time, glycation happens.” “Collagen becomes stiff when sugar molecules attach to it. Instead of bending, the collagen cracks, which causes lines, wrinkles, and sagging.”
That’s why he says you should eat a balanced diet and stay away from foods that are high in sugar, starch, and processing. By the way, high sugar levels can also cause acne, so cutting back on sugar can help keep your skin clear.
What is the goal? Think about sugar again without losing the fun. Instead of a super-sweet martini, have a glass of red wine. You’ll still get the pleasure plus antioxidants like resveratrol.
Nutritionists say these five wines are the “healthiest.”
Cigarette smoking
Gina Maccarone, MD, a triple-board-certified cosmetic surgeon, says, “Smoking in any form is the biggest cause of skin ageing besides sun exposure Nicotine narrows blood vessels, which makes it harder for oxygen and nutrients to reach the skin. This slows down healing and speeds up the breakdown of collagen over time, which causes wrinkles and changes in the texture of the skin.
If quitting seems hard, start with small steps. Instead of taking a break to smoke take a five-minute walk or chew minty gum. Your skin and lungs will notice.
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Mona Gohara, MD, says that you can’t change your genes and that stress is a normal part of life. Instead, she says, you should focus on the “other S words” that you can change. Stress, sugar, and the sun are the main ones but they usually come with a group: bad sleep and smog, which both make collagen loss and inflammation happen faster.
The goal isn’t to be perfect; it’s to get fewer hits over time. Consistent sun protection, better sleep habits, stress management, and good skin care can all help your skin look better.
Sleep like it’s good for your skin
At night, your skin heals itself Gohara says, “If you don’t get enough sleep, your body makes less collagen and more inflammation.” “Instead of doom-scrolling until midnight, try a wind-down ritual. Even 30 minutes earlier can make a difference A silk pillowcase is a nice touch because it reduces friction and helps skin (and hair) age more gracefully.
Keep pollution out
Gohara says that smog and particulate matter cause oxidative stress, which breaks down collagen and weakens the skin barrier. “Instead of going to work with a bare face, use antioxidant serums like vitamin C and niacinamide and wash your face gently every night.”
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Gohara says, “Think of collagen banking like a 401(k) for your skin—the earlier and more consistently you invest, the better the long-term payoff.” “Use retinoids to boost collagen production, peptides to help skin signalling, and sunscreen every day to protect what you’re building.”
