There isn’t much that surprises me when it comes to beauty trends I have to test out the newest products and treatments for work. I’ve tried everything from vajacials (yes, that kind of facial) to breast milk serums. When salmon sperm became the latest hot ingredient in skin care, I was interested. I had to know if putting salmon sperm (also known as PDRN) on your face is a good idea or just a gimmick because more brands are using it in their products. I called three dermatologists to find out.
- Mona Gohara, MD, is an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine.
- Dr. Kavita Mariwalla is a double-board-certified dermatologist, Mohs surgeon, and the founder of Mariwalla Dermatology in West Islip, New York.
- Joshua Zeichner, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and the head of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital’s Department of Dermatology.
What Is “PDRN,” Also Known as Salmon Sperm?
PDRN, short for polydeoxyribonucleotide is a mixture of low–molecular-weight DNA fragments typically derived from salmon sperm. The source may be strange, but dermatologists say that what matters is how the ingredient affects skin cells. “Salmon sperm might sound crazy at first, but skin doesn’t care where it comes from, only the signal,” says Mona Gohara, MD, an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine. Researchers have looked into PDRN’s possible regenerative effects on skin and found that it can improve hydration texture, plumpness, and the look of fine lines.
What Is the Purpose of Salmon Sperm (PDRN)?
Gohara says that PDRN should help skin cells repair and grow back more quickly. “It was first studied for wound healing which means that skin needs to make collagen, build new blood vessels, control inflammation, and promote the growth of cells that help repair damage,” says Kavita Mariwalla, MD, a double-board-certified dermatologist, Mohs surgeon, and founder of Mariwalla Dermatology in West Islip, New York.
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According to Mariwalla, PDRN is thought to work by turning on the adenosine A2A receptor, which helps with tissue repair and sends signals to fight inflammation. Researchers also think it might stimulate fibroblasts the cells that make collagen. This is why it has been looked into as a way to improve the texture, strength, and the look of fine lines in aesthetic treatments.
Dermatologists say that PDRN is not a quick fix for glowing skin. Instead, it is a skin-repair ingredient that helps the skin’s barrier function, reduces inflammation and strengthens the skin over time.
Is Salmon Sperm (PDRN) Really That Good?
Dermatologists agree that PDRN has solid evidence behind it in medical settings, particularly for diabetic foot ulcers and chronic, non-healing wounds. But there isn’t as much research on aesthetics. Mariwalla says, “There isn’t much data in aesthetics.” “To be honest, everything we use it for is anecdotal and based on small sample sizes.”
That hasn’t stopped the ingredient from becoming popular on social media. Some patients say their skin is less red more hydrated, and overall better, but Mariwalla wants you to know that “it is not a magic bullet.”
Gohara says it’s more of a helper than a miracle worker for skin care. She says, “Dermatologists aren’t telling everyone to go out and use this.” Instead, she thinks it’s a good extra for skin that has “been through it,” like after a procedure, too much exfoliation, inflammation, or just looking tired. She also says that it should not replace things like sunscreen, retinoids, antioxidants, and moisturisers.
Gohara says that PDRN should not replace things like sunscreen, retinoids, antioxidants, and moisturisers; it should only add to them.
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Many other experts agree with that. PDRN is generally well tolerated and its suggested benefits are biologically plausible; however, there are no strong placebo-controlled trials demonstrating its superiority over current treatments. One dermatologist says that PDRN “is not a filler” and shouldn’t be seen as a way to add volume or structure. It’s also important to set expectations Instead of completely changing the skin, it’s better to think of it as a biological signal modulator. It might give the skin a temporary boost in quality and hydration, but it won’t change it permanently.
Can You Use PDRN and Microneedling Together?
Some providers mix PDRN with microneedling to help it get deeper into the skin because it is a large molecule Microneedling makes small, controlled injuries in the skin, which starts the body’s natural healing process and encourages the production of new collagen. This can make fine lines wrinkles, and mild sagging look better over time, usually in weeks to months.
Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital Department of Dermatology, says, “Microneedling isn’t a sprint; it’s more like a marathon.” Results get better over time as collagen changes shape.
When polynucleotides like PDRN are used during or after treatment, the microchannels may help the body absorb them better. Zeichner, on the other hand, warns that microneedling is not painless and should only be done by a trained professional because any procedure that opens up the skin can lead to infection.
He also doesn’t try things out at home without thinking them through. Some people use PDRN serums with at-home dermarollers but these products are meant to be used on the skin, not injected. Deeper penetration could, in theory, cause inflammation. Most of the time, at-home devices aren’t very deep, so serious problems are unlikely to happen. However, it’s still best to get professional help.
What to Look for in a PDRN Item
If you want to try it, read the label first. Look for products that say “salmon DNA” or “PDRN.” Choose serums or ampoules that you can leave on your skin for a longer time so that the ingredient has more time to work. Gohara also says that you should choose formulas with simple calming and supportive ingredients instead of ones with too many different ones. Gohara says, “It’s not magic, but for the right skin at the right time, this fishy-sounding ingredient can really do its job.”
